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-   -   O2 sensor (http://www.scionxdforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1593)

1sweetxd 09-18-2012 11:09 AM

O2 sensor
 
well i've searched the site here and couldnt find any info on this topic. i ran over something in the highway a month or so ago and punched a hole in my coolant system and had to have that whole thing replaced. $6500!! thank goodness for insurance. lol. anyways, my car is back and running great! my engine light came on the other day and i went to autozone for them to pull the code. they pulled P2195 which when i look it up, it is for the O2 sensor. i know that code gets pulled a lot so i looked into it. i think they are right since my car has lost a little of its pep and my Avg MPG has gone from 34 to like 27!

has anybody else out there had an issue with this? what is the best type of 02 sensor to go with and where is the best place to get it? ive found them anywhere from $75 to $200. and i understand it only takes like 15 to change. i want to make sure i get the correct part and install it correctly. any input will be greatly apprecaited!!

1sweetxd 09-26-2012 10:52 AM

well i went by autozone this past weekend and asked them about the O2 sensors for the xd. they carry them but would have to special order them. they said there are two different sensors. a front and back? i had no idea about that. there is a huge price difference between the two. like $60 for one and over $200 for the other.

does anyone know of any way to find out which O2 sensor is fouling out? the couldnt tell me at autozone

manonxd 09-26-2012 09:20 PM

A/F ratio sensor....the expensive one
 
this is what the Repair manual says...P2195: Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor (Bank 1) signal stuck lean.

A/F (air/fuel ratio sensor) sensor are a newer, if I can say, version of o2 sensors. much quicker to respond, more accurate and so on. o2 sensor are still used but after the catalitic converter (to mesure its efficiency).

it is the closest to the engine (starting from the cylinder head).

the more expensive one...but why don't you go OEM parts? I wouldn't skip on quality on this part. try to get a discount at the parts counter...tell them you will be shopping around..

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 PM ----------

from my dealer experience, i have seen that a couple of time after a major overall, either from the coolant that went and contaminated the sensor or the tech bagging around the sensor ( left on the exhaust manifold for repair/replacement). the most frequent scenario is a blowned head gasket and coolant went in the engine and destroyed the sensor. Since they are running 2-trip logic, (has to happen twice and each time with a specific driving pattern and many condition met...) the car leaves the dealership without MIL on and a few days (depending on the customer driving habit) the light comes on.

1sweetxd 09-27-2012 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manonxd (Post 14342)
this is what the Repair manual says...P2195: Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor (Bank 1) signal stuck lean.

A/F (air/fuel ratio sensor) sensor are a newer, if I can say, version of o2 sensors. much quicker to respond, more accurate and so on. o2 sensor are still used but after the catalitic converter (to mesure its efficiency).

it is the closest to the engine (starting from the cylinder head).

the more expensive one...but why don't you go OEM parts? I wouldn't skip on quality on this part. try to get a discount at the parts counter...tell them you will be shopping around..

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 PM ----------

from my dealer experience, i have seen that a couple of time after a major overall, either from the coolant that went and contaminated the sensor or the tech bagging around the sensor ( left on the exhaust manifold for repair/replacement). the most frequent scenario is a blowned head gasket and coolant went in the engine and destroyed the sensor. Since they are running 2-trip logic, (has to happen twice and each time with a specific driving pattern and many condition met...) the car leaves the dealership without MIL on and a few days (depending on the customer driving habit) the light comes on.


thanks for the info! i'm still sorta confused on this whole thing. but your reasoning does explain why it may have failed. since i had to have the coolant system replaced, maybe that had something to do with it. i got on a website yesterday and the tech there was able to tell me that for that code, P2195, it should be the front driver side o2 sensor. at least now i know if it is the one before or after the catalytic converter. now that i know which part, i'm gonna go on the hunt.


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